Philippines

My mother and I finally managed to take Jenny to the Philippines to see my family’s home island and farm. There’s finally a direct shot to Manila from the tristate area, unfortunately it’s at JFK. Many of things that can be said about JFK can also be said about herpes or a backed up sewer line. Sometimes things are best left in the past, so I’ll just NOT say more than that be prepared for Tita’s checking in 15 boxes each. I swear some boxes were legit washer and dryers. I won’t talk about the check-in staff, the security line, the TSA, or the terminal itself. It will trigger an anxiety attack.

I’ve been going to the Philippines since I was four years old so I’ve seen it change a lot. Manila Airport has gotten better in that when you exit the airport chaos doesn’t descend on you like a scene from a Jerry Bruckheimer movie. And there are express highways that zigzag the city for those who are willing to pay to dodge the insane traffic. We were in Makati for a day. It is probably the best place for a first time or frequent visitor to Manila. It’s where many of the hotels, shopping, and safe food are located. Hell there’s an Hermes store, Din Tai Fung, and a Raffles. Manila got a DTF before New York, and even has two. SHAME.

My family’s home island is Panay which is part of the central Philippines, but the province is Iloilo. And it has also grown quite a bit over the years. Back when I was a kid the airport was just a field with some goats, and now it’s concrete and glass. And they’ve developed some new areas of the city specifically around all the call centers. Remember all those times you’ve had to call customer service and “Andy” picked up the phone. Well his name ain’t Andy it’s really Ezekiel Jesus Santos de la Cruz. I guess when they were dropping the fiber someone had the right idea to pass it here. I get a kick out of all the change. Near our hotel was a Starbucks and McDonald’s but you walk a block away and it’s still people cooking skewers along the sidewalk. It reminds me of when I lived in China during the mid 2000s and witnessed their rapid transition. Jeepneys are one of the most iconic symbols of the Philippines, but now they have to compete against modernized buses with air conditioning. And talking to my family and meeting friends of friends I got to see how much of their mentality has changed with all this development and how much hasn’t changed. Though I must say that I didn’t hear anyone complaining, and how can you when a decade ago you may not have had electricity.

My family’s farm is forty or so minutes from Iloilo City. And on the way you pass many smaller cities like Janiuay and Lambunao. I have family in just about every town along the way, but if you come from an immigrant family like mine you know that sometimes you don’t want them to know you are around. Wanting to egg an aunt’s house is a rite of passage.

As for the farm, there’s not much to say except it’s got rice, bananas, coconuts, swine, chickens, and geese. Taro and Pandan grow on the side of the walking path and aside from a current drought it usually rains everyday here and there. All my mother’s immediate family have left the farm for America, but we still have family living and working there. I don’t know if you know anything about rice farming, but it’s like a sprint. When you gotta go you go, but sometimes you’re just chilling around waiting. Imagine the deepest July when it’s 98 degrees and the air thick as shit. Some of my family that has been in America too long like to complain they aren’t doing anything, but I’m like stfu it’s too damn hot.

There are only three things I really do when back on the island. One is eat, another is hang with family, and lastly is go to Guimaras which is just the next island over. What do I eat? Well, rice of course. There’s plain rice, fried rice, arroz caldo, congee, and my favorite: garlic rice. Now I don’t eat it like my family over there. Maybe I eat 2 cups at each meal, but they get down. I remember seeing Jenny’s face seeing how much rice my cousins eat. Oh you thought you’re Asian? I’m a show you something lol. There’s also all these desserts that are variations of rice flour and coconut milk you can’t get in America. Then there’s all the fruits from pineapples, mangoes (not in season at the time), lanzones, and the sacred kalamansi. I also make my rotation between grilled chicken at Mang Inasal, and seafood dishes like prawns and crab at various places. In all honesty, food in the Philippines is mostly simple and specific. Ornate dishes are reserved for the annual fiesta. Amazingly many of the iconic dishes are stews which just sounds crazy when you rarely see a low below 80 degrees.

Guimaras is famous for its mangoes. It should be more well known for the beaches, but I guess they aren’t developed enough. You definitely see Europeans and Australians around, but not many Americans yet. Perhaps that’s a good thing, though in my experience Americans have more manners than the type of European/Aussie that makes its way around that part of the world. I just go there to chill on the beach and eat prawns. North of the home island is Boracay which has amazing beaches, but it’s got a bit of that “Diddy” vibe.

I always come back from the Philippines feeling good. It’s nice to see the country chugging along, yet it’s the same old same old. There’s nothing better than walking out in the morning to the humidity carrying the fragrance of fresh rice. Well maybe some fresh Pan de Sal dunked into Nutella.