Istanbul Part 2

Istanbul 2

Jenny and I had a wonderful time in Istanbul, Turkey. I have been attracted to the idea of visiting Istanbul for some time now. Not only am I a lover of history, but for years now I’ve studied civilization as a hobby. Because I read a lot about the rise and fall of various civilizations along with the general concept of civilization, Istanbul is a very attractive destination.

First, Istanbul is a Turkish city. Turkish culture at face value and with minimal experience seems very strong and beautiful. My brief encounters with people in the city were ones that made me feel relaxed and curious. It was kind of like when in Italy, but less melodrama and more anger. We found the city safe and had many things to do whether haggling, lounging drinking coffee, listening to music, or just strolling around. It reminded me a bit of San Francisco in that there was a large body of water and many hills. Yet Istanbul was well run and cleaner in comparison.

Second, Istanbul is more than just a Turkish city. It has layers of history within its bones. Before it was Istanbul, it was Constantinople and before that Byzantium. As Constantinople, it was Rome. I’m not one of those who buy into it being the Eastern Roman Empire or Byzantine Empire. It was Rome. The city of Rome in Italy is of course the original Rome. Yet Rome wasn’t and isn’t just a place. It was a civilization. Once the Ottoman Turks conquered the city, Rome as a civilization died. But they also took part of it to create something beautiful for themselves.

I love reading about nomads just as much as I do civilization. Personally I’ve always storied myself with the Celts and Saxons after the retreat of Rome. That is, I am somewhere in between, part barbarian and part civilized. Personal freedom is an undying desire in my heart, but the treasures of aesthetics, art, and our collective glory are sublime. A Saxon is both happy in a forest amongst the old oaks and in a marble hot spring. I like to think of it that while barbarians are closer to the land, some can be stained by the power of civilization. Something becomes abstract. And for many it is not so easy to go back, unless of course you are a Hun. For how terrifying the Huns were that their empire could collapse in a generation and they disappear into the steppe is something beautiful. I appreciate the impermanence as much as I love that Roman roads still stand.

So, to be in Istanbul was a delight. One can visit a bustling modern city living next to its past. Unlike Rome in Italy which while a jewel is no longer important. Maybe it is for the Catholic Church and tourism, but it doesn’t have any strategic importance to the world, and what new ideas come from there? Istanbul, because of its geography, is one of the world’s chokepoints. It will always be important as long as humans are doing human things. From the grain growing regions of the black sea that are currently warring, it connects that body of water into the Mediterranean and further into the Suez and beyond. Look at the rising prices of grain around the world and remember most of it passes right through Istanbul.

I should also note that we were there during Ramadan. In part one, I talked about the food; but being in a majority Muslim country during their specific religion commitments was something I was interested in. Turkey is a secular country and rather liberal when in comparison to other majority Muslim countries. But seeing hundreds of men on the first Friday of Ramadan praying on rugs outside the Hagia Sophia was something to see.

In the future I’d like to explore more of Turkey. As I said above I love to read about nomads, and really, I should be going to see them whether in Anatolia or Mongolia. Amazingly, I found out that one of the two animals I am not allergic to is the horse. And since I was a kid, I loved being on a horse. Turkey is like a good introductory point, because historically they were nomads and there are still some there. At this point they are a little like me: a bit still in the mind of out there in the forest or steppe, but footed in the ruins of a once glorious civilization while in modernity. I was told that Turkey sometimes doesn’t know if it is Asian, European, still of the Central Asian steppe, or other variations. As someone who is the child of an immigrant and also of Jersey and the New York area yet yearns to be amongst the old trees, I can relate somewhat. We know who we are in relation to ourselves but towards others it is a toss up.

Alex.